The Stanford Business Reporter

Issue date: 11/12/01 Section: Arts & Entertainment

It is much harder than anyone can imagine being food critics…especially at the GSB. Classmates, parents and friends are always opining on past columns or providing us with new restaurants to check out. We recently saw one of our favorite professors walking through Stanford Shopping Center and he congratulated us on our previous columns but he also wondered when we would review some of the finer establishments around such as Spago and Evvia. We briefly considered reviewing those vaunted eateries but we decided to adopt a different raison d’etre. Instead of validating acclaimed restaurants, we strive to work as culinary archeologists, uncovering delicious treasures for the GSB community.

Our mission this time around was to displace Taco Bell (and Jack in the Box) as the preferred Mexican eatery of the GSB. While the bottom line of 10 tacos for $1 is an attractive financial proposition, especially for quantitatively oriented MBA students, food should not be about dollars and cents alone. Food is about the senses, not about your lack of language skills or fear of the unknown. So, we encourage you to branch out and try some places that offer real Mexican food.

Taquiera El Grullense

The first restaurant recommended wholeheartedly by burrito aficionado, Steve Jurvetson of Draper Fisher Jurvetson was Taqueria El Grullense located in Redwood City. Its bright shining neon lights belie a raw, homely décor decorated with burgers and fries on the walls (obviously a hamburger startup that dot-bombed).

The menus are primarily in Spanish, but the management has been kind enough to also offer a picture menu with English translations. Thus, this is a great place to delve into the world of authentic Mexican food.

Bryant: I hated the crappy décor and I really am baffled by the continuing existence of hamburger moldings on the walls. El Grullense is not a new restaurant. Nonetheless, with Frances’ insistence I surveyed the menu, which has about every possible burrito option available running the gamut from a wet burrito with green sauce to dry burritos with gizzards. There are several plate meals available as well and I actually chose to try the Huevos Rancheros and a Taco Con Sesos. The Huevos Rancheros were not very good. It was cold and the salsa was not hot enough for my taste. The rice and beans were good but I do not need to venture out my house (or Arbuckle) if I wanted to eat good rice and beans.

The sesos were actually quite good albeit a bit rubbery. I thought that eating brains might perchance increase my own brainpower but alas, I think that I am still at last week’s level. I have eaten at Taqueria El Grullense on several occasions and I think that their tacos and burritos are quite good. On the other hand, some of their plate dinners were awful on this visit. Due to the mixed results from my El Grullense experience, I will stick with a P but do not be surprised to see me there next time you go.

Frances: I had no idea who Jurvetson was, so I didn’t really pay much attention to Bryant’s factoid about this place. I was, however, very intrigued by the juxtaposition of the 1950’s drive-up hamburger joint appearance of the architecture and the Spanish language signage advertising Mexican food. The possibility of gum-popping waitresses on roller skates taking orders for taquitos and chimichangas seemed surreal. Unfortunately, my fantasy did not turn into reality so I will talk about the food instead.

I’ve actually eaten here many times, but I was initially attracted by the décor. My usual choice is either the Chile Verde or Carnitas Plate (which I eat like fajitas). Depending on the night, both can be either pretty good or disappointingly mediocre. Sometimes the meat is juicy and flavorful (a good thing). Other times, the meat is tough and dry (not so good). All entrées come with refried beans, rice and (corn or flour) tortillas. The flour tortillas are always soft and warm. But the rice and beans are nothing special. Luckily, I can always stuff my self-made burrito with pico de gallo (see below), which saves any meal.

There is also a condiment bar with red salsa, green salsa, pico de gallo, lime wedges and pickled veggies. The unlimited supply of tasty, spicy, pico de gallo always results in my filling up on tortilla chips before the arrival of my entrée. I must inquire about whether they would be willing to sell me the stuff by the pint.

Overall, I really appreciate the ambiance of El Grullense. Unlike Bryant, I enjoy the charm of a place that is casual, frequented by real people, and open till 3 am. It’s a real oasis from recruiting receptions and post-LPF dinners at restaurants that have upscale décor and bland, lowest-common denominator food.

Amelia’s Mexican Restaurant

Notice a change in the byline? That’s what happens when a World Series results in baseball widowhood for one food columnist! Luckily, it’s a coveted privilege and I didn’t have trouble recruiting some helpful “pinch-hitters” to step in for Mr. Jenkins.

Heading to East PA with a Tex-Mex and a Canadian whom had never journeyed east of Q Bar was probably not the most efficient way to find a good Mexican restaurant. So, I suggested to Omar that he call Information to locate a place he had heard good things about. Next thing I knew, Omar was chatting it up with the Sprint PCS Lady. How’s this for an inquiry: “City: Redwood City, California; Listing: Uh, yeah, do you know of any good Mexican restaurants around here?” The operator then happily transferred him to Amelia’s Restaurant. Why doesn’t AT&T do that for me when I ask for “any good-looking single guys in San Francisco”?

The parking gods smiled upon us and we pulled into a spot right in front of the restaurant, which resembled a cozy bistro from the outside. The interior, however, was a bit schizophrenic with pretty murals depicting idyllic countrysides co-existing with overhead televisions broadcasting the World Series and diner-like chairs and tables.

Frances: While I appreciated Omar’s Spanish language skills for menu interpretation (Amelia’s does not provide picture menus nor English descriptions), his tendency to get conversationally involved with strangers resulted in a very time-consuming ordering process.

Eventually, we went “family-style” and ordered four dishes: Chile Verde, Pollo a la Veracruzana, Camarones al Mojo de Ajo, and a Pollo con Queso Pupusa.

The Chile Verde was impressive with moist and tender chunks of meat smothered in a delicate green chile sauce. It was so subtle that it took a while to appreciate.

I also savored the Camarones. The shrimp were large, plump, juicy and marinated in tasty spices. The large chunks of sautéed garlic added extra flavor (much appreciated by this garlic lover!).

Unfortunately, the Pollo a la Veracruzana did not spark any taste buds. I think I’m biased against tomato sauces. There’s something inherently mundane about any tomato sauce. But the chicken was tender.

Those three entrees came with the requisite refried beans and rice, as well as a mixed greens salad that you usually associate with yuppie cuisine.

My other major disappointment was the Pupusa. It completely lacked flavor so I stopped eating it after my initial bite.

For once, we saved room for dessert and ordered Platanos Solos. These plantains were perfect in their own distinct way. Tender and toasted warm, not too sweet and not gooey. Fans of the syrup covered, sickly sweet variety would have been disappointed, but those who search in vain for a mild dessert would have enjoyed this find.

Omar: Admittedly, the menu may be a bit hard for non-Spanish speakers to understand, but the owner who doubled as the cashier was more than adequate in her English-speaking skills. The funky part was that Salvadorian food was mixed in among the Mexican food choices. But, if the Pupusa is representative of their Salvadorian-style food, then definitely order a Mexican dish.

Since I “am” Tex-Mex, I have a bit more discerning taste for Mexican food. I was not impressed by either the rice or beans – neither homemade. I agree with Frances’ assessment of the main entrees and could have eaten the platanos until I passed out. Oh wait, I did.

Since the extra-inning thriller of a game was on during dinner we were all particularly grateful that the highly excitable Jenkins was unable to join us.

Andrew: Having grown up in a country where my only exposure to Mexican style cuisine was Taco Bell, I was very impressed by the food. I had no idea what I was eating but it was excellent value for the money.

Being the beer connoisseur that I am (malt liquor being my favorite), I found the El Salvadorian beer to be flavorful - particularly Famosa beer. Omar and I used the beer to our advantage and are now fully informed about the goods on the second years… in other words give Frances a few beers and there is no putting a stop to what comes out of her mouth. Jenkins was sorely missed but fortunately we had El Salvadorian soap operas to replace his witty conversation. (Hopefully I get invited back after these comments).

Brief Guide to the Picture

Forgetting that the rest of the world actually celebrates Halloween on the 31st of October (not the Friday before), we (the men) were startled to walk out of the restaurant and find a comely group of ladies fixing their prom dresses. They raved about their favorite local restaurant, Amelia’s, and we thought it only natural to share some of our 15 minutes with them.

Brief Guide to Mexican Food
Pollo = chicken
Carne or Bistec = beef
Puerco or Carnitas = pork
Camarones = shrimp
Sesos = brains
Lengua = tongue
Pico de Gallo = chunks of tomato, onion, jalapeno peppers, cilantro, etc.
Chile Verde = green salsa
Arroz = rice
Frijoles = beans
Huevos = eggs
Queso = cheese
Ajo = garlic
Platanos = banana-like fruit
Menudo = Spanish boy band
Tortillas = you gotta be kiddin’ us!

Taquiera El Grullense
1280 El Camino Real
Redwood City, CA
(650) 368-3737
Food: P (for inconsistent quality)
Ambiance: P
Service::NA

Amelia’s Mexican Restaurant
2042 Broadway
Redwood City, CA
(650) 368-1390
Food: P
Ambiance: P
Service: NA

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